Electrical Topics
The Heinkel engineers created a solid machine with an even better electrical system.
Heinkel Tourists implement a battery assisted spark design. The Tourist will not work without a battery. Additionally, most Tourists have an electric starter, so strong batteries are a must.
Before you do any work on the electrical system, ALWAYS disconnect the batteries! Failure to do so can result in blown fuses or bulbs (inexpensive) or shorted coils (expensive).
- Batteries. The battery is a critical element to the Tourist. Original documentation states use of two 6-volt batteries wired in series. The batteries are the 6N11A-1B variety found at most scooter shops. Alternatively, you can use a single 12-volt 11-amp (or 12) battery that has the same dimensions (2.5" x 5" x 5") as one of the 6-volt batteries. I have had great luck with a single Interstate YB5L-B battery, but I think the pair of 6-volt batteries work best. Make sure that your batteries are connected with heavy guage wire.
- Ignition Switch. There isn't much that can go wrong with the ignition switch UNLESS you connect it incorrectly OR you use something other than a real Heinkel key to start it. I will say that I thought my ignition switch was deteriorating until I discovered that the key was becoming too thin. When it was in the lights on position, the scooter would start sputtering until I lightly pushed the key back in place. The fix? A new key.
- Dynastart. TBD.
- External Coil. I have never actually seen an external coil go bad on a Heinkel, but I've seen many replacements. I do know that big blue car type coil will work, but you need to build some form of holding bracket. My friend Harley once cautioned me against leaving the key in the ignition, engine off with the "tell tale" light on, for more that a few seconds. He told me that this would fry a coil. Hennie Benning from the Netherlands sent me a picture of what can really happen. I'll bet the clean up was difficult...If you replace the coil, be sure to connect it as follows: Post #1 is negative, it connects to the condenser and to the points. Post #15 is positive and it connects to post #15 of the ignition switch.
- Points. The points gap is 0.35mm - 0.45mm. The timing is 8 - 10 degrees before top dead center. With a Heinkel, you can adjust the points while the motor is running!
- Fuses. Most Tourists have a fuse box located in the back side of the legshield. The fuse box contains four 8 amp fuses. Even though blowing a fuse is a rare event, I carry a few spares with me. If you are trouble shooting an electrical issue, always make sure your fuses are good. Also you might try rotating the fuse a little to "freshen up" the metal on the ends. Over time, the metal can oxidize and the connection may fail.
- Ground. Like most vehicles, the Tourist frame is the ground in the circuit - negative ground that is. After restoring my A1, I started having issues with my tail light flickering. The powder coating on my frame and/or the body paint prevented a good ground. I added a ground wire to my harness. Problem solved.
