Gerry Goldberg's A2 Repair Journal
by Michael McWilliams
May 1, 2005
It is time to install the clutch. The workshop manual provides a clear description of this task. The Workshop defines the clutch piece installation order: "...end disc, wire snap ring, outer disc, inner disc, outer disc, inner disc, outer disc, lift-off ring with thrust-bearing and clutch pin, end disc, spring seat with springs."
I have one clarification. The end disks are slightly thicker than the inner disks.
Now that the clutch is installed, I grease up both ends of the shifting rod and insert it into position. The notch on the shift rod must be between the two notches on the corresponding gear. If the notches aren't lined up properly, you will not be able to set up the shift cables properly.
Next, grease the threaded clutch rod. The threaded clutch rod has a flat spot. This flat spot is where the mushroom seal must lie. If the seal ends up resting on the threads, it will shred itself almost immediately.
The clutch cover pieces consist of a rubber washer, an oil ring, the mushroom seal, the worm gear, the clutch lever and securing hardware. Install the oil ring into the hole. Remember, the spring side faces inward.
On the back side of the clutch cover, grease the lip where the mushroom seal will sit. Install mushroom seal. Grease up inner hole of mushroom seal as well.
Next, install clutch cover. The HCD sells two cone tools that are supposed to be placed over the clutch rod and shift rod. I bought these tools, but neither work as designed. The gear rod cone is too large to fit through the gear rod hole. The clutch rod cone is too narrow to fit on the clutch rod. I generally install the cover without the tools. I begin by inserting the clutch rod into the mushroom seal.
As I said before, I use a lot of grease. I don't want to tear the seal. I ease the seal over the threaded rod. Next I line up the gear rod with the oil seal. Once aligned, I tap the clutch cover into place.
Along the way, I look into the clutch rod hole to verify that the mushroom seal is resting upon the flat spot of the clutch rod. If it isn't, use a narrow socket or similar tool to push the seal onto the flat spot. If you forget this step, the seal rest upon the clutch rod threads and will rip immediately once in use.
Next, install the worm gear. Slip the worm gear over the clutch rod. The worm gear is threaded internally and externally. The internal threads are used by the clutch rod. The external threads are for the clutch cover housing. To get the worm gear to go into position, use a narrow blade screw driver on the clutch rod slot. Turing the screw driver counter clockwise will make the worm gear go into position. The worm gear is installed when it is flush with the clutch cover.
Keep in mind that the worm gear has only one correct position. Lie the clutch lever on the worm gear. If the clutch is approximately in the 4 o'clock position, it is installed properly. Anything else, remove the worm gear turn it 120 degrees and try again.
Next I installed and adjusted the clutch lever according to specifications. The workshop manual says that the lever must be free until it lines up with one of the case nuts (approximately 5 o'clock position). Once they align, it must have resistance. To adjust this position, use a narrow screw driver to turn the clutch rod back or forth.
Next I installed the gear arm. No trick here except that the notch on gear arm must match the notch on the shift rod. Finally I tightened all clutch cover nuts.